The Heights of Shimla

Beautiful Shimla, a hill station, founded apparently by the British and used as their summer holiday capital. However, I suspect the Indian folk knew about this beautiful place far before the British and enjoyed its beauty ! It is now an Indian tourist destination, surrounded by green bushland and watched over by the Himalayas, presumably snow capped in the cooler months. We travelled up by car, through the winding bushland, a journey of only 59 kms and yet it took two hours. I love drives like this, just sitting back relaxing. Although I do recall Tarun taught us a singing game, the end sound of the first song becomes the starting sound of the next song. Being competitive, I found this game was prejudiced towards Tarun and Lehku, all of their songs seemed to start and end with the same sound! And, seeing as we didn’t understand the language, all the endings to all the songs sounded the same to us!  Lehku, who had quite a decent voice, was very animated and thoroughly enjoyed this game and he was really good at it too! Kim and I sat there looking at each other struggling to jump in quick enough with a song and struggling with our very humble voices. I think i’d rather play pool! It amused us all tho and soon enough we arrived into the very busy little Shimla. There is only one road up to the top of Shimla and it proved very busy, I read the British had built this road with this in mind, however I don’t expect they would have ever thought this hillside town to be so well patronised! The walk up to the Ridge was very pretty, markets and bizarres lined the streets and laneways. We found some beautiful Indian throw rugs and a quaint little shop selling very old books and pictures at quite high prices, maybe the shopowner didn’t want to part with any of his fare anyway!!

Once we were up on the Ridge the British influence here was very evident. The architecture became very familiar, the views however, were amazing. Shimla extends across the mountain sides quite a way. The houses on the sides of the mountains are all flat roofed and really close together, foundations appear to be questionable and God help if beautiful Shimla has an earthquake. The air up there was clean and crisp and people were clearly in holiday mode!  There were many young couples and everyone was walking around enjoying the atmosphere. Shimla was different to anywhere else we had been in India. I tried to imagine what it would have been like when the British were here, all those lovely long flowing dresses and formal suits etc. Now there is a little Nepalese flavour to the dress code mixed with the traditional Indian saris. Once again, as Europeans, we were definitely the minority. We had Chai in Shimla in a tiny little café, it was refreshing after walking around this village. I feel that you could easily spend a few days here and enjoy the setting in a relaxed time frame, there was much to see and appreciate.

We had a train to catch, we were going back down to Kamarhatti via the toy train. I have no idea why it was called a toy train I gather it is due to the small gauge rail line. We had first class tickets booked and the train was about six carriages long and being pulled by a diesel locomotive. I was looking forward to this trip immensely and felt quite excited. The railway station at Shimla is covered in monkeys, up in the rafters there were families of them! On the tracks and the platform they waited cheekily for the trains to arrive and depart. Our carriage was modest, yet perfectly comfortable. Tarun, our tour guide, came with us on the trip and as always we talked a lot and enjoyed not only the beautiful train ride but some interesting conversation as well. The train snaked through the mountains and stopped at little stations along the way. It took 3 1/2 hours to do the same trip which had taken 2 hours by car. I loved the whole trip. it was a unique experience, we went under many tunnels, over many bridges and we stopped for numerous cows to cross the tracks! People walked alongside the tracks in the bushland and now and again you would see them venture off pathways up the hillside presumably to their homes. I had waited until the third last day of our trip for this train ride and I was most definitely not disappointed. It was lovely! When we arrived at Kumahartti station there wasn’t even a platform, we were down in a valley and climbed many stairs to the street level above.

We have seen so many different facets to this wonderful country of India and climbing the heights to Shimla and returning to the quaint township of Kumahartti added another dimension. The day was perfect and one I would remember for a long time.

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Solan and a little place called Kumahatti.

We continued our journey through the Himalayias, the little towns we drive through are smaller and mainly built on hillsides or in valleys. We are quite foreign here and stick out like the proverbial sore thumb. Staring eyes catch us and I fear we are a novelty in some respects! We pass through a little town called Nahan, it reminds me of the Cinque Terre area in Italy, it was very old and houses are clustered on the hill side in a colourful pattern. Whilst Cinque Terre is old yet modern, Nahan is old and mature. Horses and carts line the little streets alongside cows, dogs and monkeys. People in India, despite their lack of material wealth are happy. It’s a happiness that presides over the country, a sense of knowing where they are meant to be and making the absolute best of it. It makes me think of our own constant desire to be better, to have more and the senselessness of it all. India has stirred up some soul searching within me….

We reach the city of Solan, right on school pick up time it seems! There were school children and people everywhere, it was warm and sunny and perfect for some market style shopping! Tarun and Lehku were bargain hunters essentials. They were fabulous at spotting what we wanted and negotiating prices if we felt we weren’t getting a fair price. We hadn’t eaten a lot of sweets whilst in India, it was so hot in most places and we just didn’t feel like sugary things, however in Solan we found amazing little cafes with cakes! Our eyes lit up like little children, we took the obligatory photo and then the obligatory taste test!  We all went in to a tiny cafe which also made the most amazing spring rolls, I have no idea what they called them in India and I always thought of spring rolls as a Chinese dish! They were so tasty and we shared spring rolls and dipped them in very odd looking bright green and red dip, all very tasty and delicious and hot and spicy.  Of course, all washed down with refreshing chai tea! For desert, we tried some cakes, bought by the half kilo and tested for free! Kim went to the counter and the shopkeeper was more than happy for her to taste test before purchasing! I can’t remember all the names of the cakes, there seemed to be lots of butter and coconut involved in all of the flavours! It was a treat which we carried on later in the evening, eating the ones we took with us!  As we passed more little cafes the speciality seemed to be Chow Mein, definitely have to try  that next time! The Chinese influence had certainly found its way down to the north of India!  However, there was more shopping to be done, we wandered down so many little alleyways and bought such a variety of things. We saw little children holding babies, Mamas strolling far behind, families, school children, people, people and more people. And, so many colours, there are so many colours in India!!

We then ventured further into the jungle, about 12kms to Kumahatti. We stayed at a resort, albeit desolate, I am so unsure why, it was so much fun and very comfortable. Our balcony backed on to the jungle behind and the views were beautiful. The toy train to Solan chugged along the little rail line just below us which made this even more special for me. My Dad had been a train enthusiast and so the sight of the little train stirred some emotion in me.

After another amazing day filled with so many adventures we checked out the pool table and we all learnt the finer points of pool. Our driver, Lehku, was incredibly uncoordinated but such a good sport. We had so many laughs, such great fun and some competitive spirits were uncovered! Once again, we ate under the stars and enjoyed more fantastic Indian cuisine. The food could not have been better the whole trip, beautiful rich meat curries and such different ways with vegetables, I loved it all!  Oh India, there is so much to miss of you….we haven’t even got to the ‘high’ as yet.

Dehredun, sounds so pretty, doesn’t it?

We travelled in our trusty car from Rishikesh on to Dehredun. It was a short but absolutely beautiful drive, through the Himalayan foothills. If this was only the foothills, I can’t even imagine what places like Mt. Everest must look like! We were up so high one moment, then we would travel down through a small town nestled in the valley, then up again on beautiful roads which had the most amazing views. Unfortunately the roads didn’t appear to have any guard rails which are everywhere in Australia, but it made for great sightseeing as there was nothing between you and the cliff edge! We had what had become the obligatory Chai tea stop and as usual I wasn’t disappointed. Indians are so good at making Chai and it always tastes delicious. The views from the tiny little Chai shop were brilliant! We sat on the steps and sipped our refreshing brew soaking in the enormity of these mountains and the views below. We reached Dehredun quite early in the afternoon and travelled on to a town called Shastradhara. It appeared to be a tourist area for Indian people and had a real holiday feel to it. Shastradhara was nestled in a valley, with a very pretty river running through and surrounded by more mountains. It was lush and green and so much cooler than Delhi, still warm but not uncomfortable. People holidayed alongside the river and there was a damned area which was used for swimming. Alongside this area we saw some brightly clothed Buddhist monks travelling home, they seemed a little out of place and I suppose there must have been a Buddhist monastery somewhere closeby.   After all we are not too far from Tibet here! I spotted a cable car and knew I had to check it out. It lead up to a Theme Park at the top of one of the hills. It was quaint, a little tired, but the views down the valleys were awesome! It had a little bit of a Disney feel to the park area and I am sure little children would have loved it. It wasn’t very busy though and I had the feeling it had seen better days. This area had a really playful and peaceful feel about it, there were young couples and families all seemingly on holidays with time to enjoy the warm weather. Next we went to our hotel, it was so quaint and had the most panoramic views out the back, our room had a 180deg view, we left the curtains open overnight so that the next morning we would be greeted by the sunrise. It proved not to be disappointing. We also had a gentle thunderstorm rock us to sleep that evening later on, a God made sound and light show, always a winner in my eyes.

After we had checked in, Tarun and Lehku knew of some falls that we had to visit. Again up a questionable road with no guard rails past ‘to die for views’ (literally) and arriving at a place that looked as though no one had seen for a few decades or more. Maybe it had once been a tourist attraction? I am not sure how Tarun finds these places, but I do love them! Barely any other people, definitely no other Europeans! We follow the trails to the top of the falls which were nice, dotted with a little rubbish which did spoil them and the track was a little tired too but still pretty and well worth the visit. Of course at the end of the trail next to the falls, there was a tiny kiosk, Tarun said they made great Chai, and, of course they did! Once again we were in the middle of nowhere enjoying a refreshing drink, a place which I don’t even know the name of but it was another one of India’s little mysteries.On the way to the falls we passed a very big and very red Hindu temple, it had an interesting sign I thought….please no donations! 

Back to the Rajpur Heights Hotel for a quick internet session followed by some Australians teaching some Indian guys how to play cards, with a very picturesque souvenir pack of cards from Rahjastan! Sometimes its hard not knowing the language, however it is always fun trying to teach and learn new things! We followed with dinner under the stars and yes chicken was back on the menu, we had left the spiritual vegetarian centre of India and so we were no longer devout vegetarians any more. Although from memory Lehku didn’t eat chicken on Tuesdays, but I am not sure why? Personally I found it good to eat chicken again!

On top of the world in Rishikesh

As you head out of Rishikesh in the morning, you pass four wheel drives laden with tourists heading out or coming back from white water rafting. It is obviously a thriving tourist industry. Instead, we did what most girls would do and went shopping. We found some cute little clothing shops and I bought some obligatory Indian style pants, that were so light and cool to wear. 

We headed off to swim in the Ganges, somewhere near Vashistha caves, it was beautiful. It was warm and sunny and here the Ganges was quite wide, edges by rocky beds and back dropped with the Himalayias. It was sparkling clean and the water was moving quickly. We found ourselves a spot to bathe in, only up to just above our knees as we weren’t allowed to swim in our bathers (not girls apparently) . Tarun and Lehku swam further upstream and they looked like they were having so much fun, I was quite envious and would have loved to go completely under the water, it was so cool and refreshing!  We paddled and sun baked for ages, it was such a beautiful place, occasionally rafters would go past along the other bank heading towards the baby rapids up ahead. Maybe rafting would have been better than shopping! Anyways, swimming was just fine and I loved it….here we were in India,  paddling in the Ganges , doesn’t get much better than that!!   

   

However, it did get better, as were joined by a bus load of Indian tourists and numerous cows!  It was so funny how the environment changed so quickly!  Kim then became Indias next top super model posing for photos with local tourists whilst I watched the whole scene unfold! 

Next it was off to lunch at the Glasshouse hotel, which is a very nice hotel overlooking the Ganges. We had a banquet of Indian food and then….we found a table tennis table! This was the beginning of our own little Australia v India World Cup of sport ie. Table tennis, Pool and cards. Tarun and Lehku v Kim and I. I’m not sure any of the proper rules were observed and I have never seen the table tennis ball off the table quite so much, but we certainly had some fun!  I think at this point of the trip some of our true personalities surfaced and we started to feel more relaxed around each other. 

We headed back towards Rishikesh, as we followed the Ganges we saw some summer tent camps which Tarun said Indian people use for holidays. I just kept thinking how hot it would be staying in these tents, no fans, no a/c but maybe this picturesque scenery makes up for it? apparently this was one of the few areas around here where you could also buy alcohol, maybe that was another attraction? when the season is over the camps get taken up as the river floods into all the areas they are situated in. The little holiday places looked like mini military bases! 

Late that afternoon we headed up into the mountains for a sunset view, at what I like to remember as ‘the top of the world’ . I wasn’t sure we would get back from here alive as we passed so many landslides on the way up and back, it was worth the risk tho. Almost indescribable, there is no way I can write the words to do it justice.             360 degrees of mountains, in the distance the Ganges meandering through the valleys. Cool, clear air, a quite echo, no cars, no people. A tiny temple, alone. Just perfect, a place to reflect and listen to the sounds of sweet nothing.  Ahhh yes, this IS India and anything is possible, even solitude if you are willing to scale heights it find it 

 

Spirit filled Rishikesh

We followed the Ganges along a back road north to Rishikesh, through a national park name Rajaji National Park. It was a very pretty drive, Tarun and Lehku were expecting to see deer, however the only animals we saw were monkeys and plenty of them! We ascended and descended numerous times and then came to the beautiful valley that the Ganges winds through and the city of Rishikesh calls home. The drive into Rishikesh is beautiful, very picturesque. We stopped about 10klms out and admired the beautiful view over the city, it was just divine with the Ganges meandering its way and then changing to small rapids and back to its more quieter spiritual look! Imagine this surrounded by the foothills of the Himalayias, so beautiful. As you get closer to Rishikesh you are confronted with the feeling that you MUST try white water rafting or maybe you wont get to experience Rishikesh. I had the feeling there was more to Rishikesh than white water rafting! I wonder if the Beatles did white water rafting when they were here back in the sixties in their ashram? Actually, I don’t even care about the Beatles! There are Holy Men everywhere in their bright orange outfits, Tarun says some aren’t the real deal and just dress up to get money, I have no idea who is legit and who isn’t!  Hotels and guest houses are built along the edges of the mountains, it is very tourist and yet very beautiful. This is probably the place where we have seen the most tourists. It is a mega city for spirituality, meditation, yoga and white water rafting, a few reasons to visit I guess!  Of course, there are also a billion, or maybe less, people!!

We head down to the Ganges to attend the evening Aarti which commences at dusk. There are so many different nationalities, so many age groups, I have no idea what to expect? Everyone who crosses the footbridge appears to be headed to the Aarti.

Some young priests begin the chanting around a fire pit with what seemed like a family receiving a special kind of blessing. The fire is significant, the ceremony faces the Ganges and as the sun sets it is beautiful. At the end of the ceremony the priests bring around lamps filled with the fire for devotees to wave it over themselves, it is a moving ritual, we participate and then bathe our feet in the Ganges. The water is cool, clean and alive. It is a moving time, I love it and I am so impressed by the joy that the people experience. Everyone is so happy. Toward the end of the Aarti we have the opportunity to pray corporately for the people of Nepal, it was the day of the earthquake and such a privilege to pray for these neighbours only 300 or so kms away. Its another one of those moments, omg we are in India.

The road to Shimla. Haridwar, happy and hard working

We leave the busy, hazy city of Delhi and head north to Shimla, Our destination tonight is Haridwar. We are going ‘off road’ according to Tarun, which I think equates to, we will be using a back road,  basically not the main highway! We meet the Ganges for the first time of this trip. It is green and in this area only about 15 metres across, it is banked by vegetation and quite slow moving, definitely peaceful.

We come across some young boys carrying sticks, with some oxen (I think, I don’t think they would be prodding sacred cows). They were playing in the water and keeping the animals in check, some were dressed some were naked. Their skin was really tanned and they were very friendly when they caught us stopping for a pic. Beautiful white teeth and big smiles!                                      Old style trays pulled by the oxen are constantly on the road, some carrying the crops, some carrying the family. As we pass them, we each stare at one another. We must almost  look like we are from another planet, so white and touristy, I feel far from home and so different to these people. I don’t want to be so different, I like it here.  Life in the rural areas is much simpler and much slower.    There is heaps of mounds of cow paddies drying out on the side of the road waiting to be used for fuel, great example of recycling and thumbs up for a greener environment! Although is there methane in cow poo??

Late afternoon we arrive in Haridwar and go straight to Taruns family village. The village is just out of Haridwar, it is called Dandi,  it  consists of maybe 8 houses with a laneway in the middle. Around the homes is some farm land lined with Poplar trees, the families grow veges, the soil looks quite good and they had a watering system in place. The hay was nearly ready to cut and Tarun told me the neighbours would all help and be paid in grain. In India they still use the old method to cut the hay with a scythe, then they gather it into bundles. We are given some Chai when we arrive and conversations gathers momentum the longer we are there. Tarun has an obvious fondness for this family and teases his cousin Jyoti and plays with his smaller cousin Manny. Jyoti is inquisitive, she asks lots of questions, I love her,  she is quite a spirited young lady! She works hard, cooking and helping to care for the family and she still studies full time.  It is quite hot here and I wonder how they sleep in the evening? There are day beds outside and out of the sun and a fan to help cool things down. Jyoti wants us to stay but we had already made arrangements to stay at a hotel in Haridwar. We decide to go back the next morning and visit again. The hotel we stay in is in Haridwar, a holy city Lehku says. The Ganges is across the road and I could see the foothills of the Himalayiasn the distance….wow we are definitely in India!

Next morning we head back to the village to visit the family again. Jyoti is excited to see us and little Manny, who was unwell last evening, was much better and being a normal little boy. I played a little cricket with him, they certainly love their cricket here, it has been such an icebreaker , as the World Cup had just been played. Jyoti painted some beautiful henna decorations on our arms and hands. I liked having henna, it made me feel more like a local. We had some great girl time discussions with Jyoti, it was another special family time that I really enjoyed.

Later on that day we went for a walk around Haridwar down by the Ganges. We went passed beggars and priests all looking for donations! Across the bridge by the Ganges was the Ghats , where people were bathing and worshipping. It was similar to Southbank in Melbourne, Australia. Except(!) add on thousands more people, sacred cows and other animals everywhere, all splashed with the most amazing colours. It was beautiful! We browsed the market place and we were stared at constantly..this was definitely not a tourist area. I tried Mango lasse at Taruns suggestion. It was delicious, we sat in the tiniest of cafes and the bazaars were just out the front, full of trinkets and vegetables, bustling with people and flies! Yes, we were still in India!

A Pinch of Spice and a Spoonful of Family

We completed the golden triangle, Delhi – Jaipur – Agra, and return to Delhi via the motorway. Before we left home, I had heard so many frightening stories about the roads and traffic. Top gear had recently aired an episode saying how dangerous they were, honestly I was expecting far worse! Yes, it was busy! Yes, it was very different to Australian road rules. And YES it works! Drivers are prepared for people coming the other way to overtake and basically make another lane, everyones up for it, just deal with it. I came back thinking what crazy drivers we are here. Inpatient, angry, stressed. In India, it just works! When ten lanes of traffic converge to four, it works with at least a mm or two to spare, I am sure we could learn a thing or two.

The afternoon before we continued our journey to Shimla, an old British city and now an Indian summer holiday destination, we were treated to some family time with our tour guide Tarun’s family. Tarun’s mum was going to give us a cooking lesson. So not only were we in India, we were now being taught to cook traditional Indian food in a traditional Indian kitchen by a very accomplished and patient Indian lady. Who, by the way, knew her stuff!

Mumty, as we called her, was delightful! I am not sure how good her English was, it was certainly better than my appalling attempts at speaking Indian. Yet, we communicated and we laughed together and we had the most fun! We learnt to make Chai, a couple of vegetarian dishes and Aloo Paratha..The smell of spices coming from that stove was intoxicating, the colours were fabulous and I can honestly say I have a much better understanding of how much spice to throw into a dish now! We then sat down with the rest of the Sharma family and enjoyed the food, it was delicious. I tried to eat one handed, frankly I just wasn’t co ordinated enough! I’m pretty sure the food tasted just as good with me pushing it around my plate with two hands!

L-R Our driver Lehku and our tour guide Tarun

The Sharma family were very hospitable and gracious, my table manners were quite possibly appalling, I am not sure! They were warm and friendly people and I learnt quite a lot about Indian families that afternoon. Mrs Sharma, you made my day and I will treasure the memories of us cooking together.

Turbans and the Taj

We travelled east from Jaipur to Agra. Just on the outskirts of Jaipur we came across Hanuman (Monkey) Temple. Seriously this place should be a movie set for something like Raiders of the Lost Ark!  It is so interesting and a place the locals seem to love too!  As we drove into the car park and around a few lazy cows, this place was intriguing, and of course it was also incredibly hot! Thru the gate and past the man who sold peanuts for the monkeys. Of course, who wouldn’t buy peanuts for the monkeys? I had experience with monkeys before so I clutched those peanuts tightly to my chest, tricky little monkeys could grab them or you at any time!  There were multiple beautiful old sandstone coloured temples which had endured time and relented to some mould around the edges. Decorated with alfresco style painting this place would have been grand in its day!

Temple hosts beckoned us in, removing sandals we wandered around the inside, people were worshiping and gurus were attending. It was a really peaceful place, so ran down, yet so beautiful, brightly dressed people contrasted the temple buildings in a decorative kind of way. I loved this place! We moved on to the swimming areas, firstly the monkey swimming area, rightly so I guess this was a monkey temple after all! Cheeky monkeys acting like little kids were pushing and jumping, doing bombs, swimming and diving into the water constantly. Occasionally a more mature elder would reprimand and take control of the swimming and diving directing it in a more organised fashion. Just like adult humans really, we try to spoil all the kid’s fun don’t we?!! When I was least expecting it, one little fellow jumped at me and tried to take all the peanuts. Damn it, I was meant to be on guard for their indecent behaviour. But, monkeys are unpredictable little folk and strike at the least predictable moment!  Scared the crap out of me actually, I thought I had been pick pocketed, which probably would have been much more scuttle now I think about it!!

Now it was onto Agra. For some, driving in the car for hours, would be annoying. Personally I find it really relaxing, an opportunity to soak in the scenery and reflect. The road from Jaipur to Agra was flat, sparse and often lined with men with turbans riding motorbikes. They sometimes carried their families, sometimes there mates and sometimes their girls. The ladies ride side saddle in a very formidable fashion. Bike helmets appear to be optional…then again how would you fit one on top of a Turban anyway!   Every now and again on this trip I felt like pinching myself, I was actually in India….turbans did that to me!

As always on the roads in India, we passed cows and camels, pigs and goats and many small towns with masses of people. Houses and shanties and ruins are everywhere. We saw gum trees and it reminded me of home for a moment.

We came into Agra, on what seems like the back way. This was a major tourism city with terrible entrance roads. Over potholes and around endless things our driver Lehku , manoeuvred our car with precision. Lehku knew a place around the Northern side of the Taj Mahal and across the river where you could view sunset at the Taj. So off we headed for our first viewing of the magnificient structure. We were dropped off and walked thru some lovely parklands to get our first glimpse of this wonder of the world. She was beautiful (I consider the Taj to be feminine, she is so pretty). As we sat with other tourists we held our cameras and smartphones waiting for the sun to go down. It was a hazy evening and so we probably didn’t get the best opportunity to get goodshots. Hey it didn’t matter, we were at the Taj, we were in India…it was all good. And, yes, she was beautiful.

The next morning, at 5:45 we met her up close and personal, at dawn the Taj glistened as the first light of the morning sparkled onto her jewels. This symmetrical building is captivating. Filled with mystery and love, adorned with jewels and more love, she is exquisite! Her history is exciting. She exhumes passion. Her surrounding gardens are also beautiful and she is guarded by beautiful gates who protect her. As the morning rolled on, more and more people came to see her and by the time we said goodbye, the Taj Mahal was filled with the people, paying their tributes. The Taj Mahal is unforgettable…she was built for a queen, however, the Taj is definitely the First Lady .

Rajahstan, Desert, Camels and Cows.

Think desert, think cows, think camels, think of more people, potholed roads, buses, colourfully decorated trucks, constant car, bus and truck horns…yes you are on the road in Rajasthan. Driving in India is interesting in so many ways. I no longer cringe when overtaking at home, after experiencing some of the busiest roads and highways in the poorest of conditions. However, let me say it works, generally. Indian drivers just know how to work the road system, I think we saw one major accident in two weeks, maybe we just had a really skilled driver, for which I am very grateful! We drove south from Delhi to Jaipur, the pink city, so called for its rich pink old city walls and buildings. Painted in rich pink in 1876 by order of the Maharajah to welcome Prince Albert.  We passed a slum on the way into town, shocking and confronting, how can some people have so much and some so little? How naïve am I?  Why do people in poverty keep having kids, why not? I don’t know the answers to my own questions, however I am challenged by the poverty.

Jaipur, like elsewhere in India is filled with colour, tuk tuks, motorbikes, young and old people. It is so busy and yet in some ways quite slow. I like it!  It has a different vibe to Delhi. We talk with people at our hotel and in food places and they recognise our accent only when we give them a hint of our cricket playing abilities, ahhh sport, the universal language!  Indians do love their cricket though and respect Australian for recently winning the World Cup.

Our first stop was the Wind Palace which had been beautifully restored. Built for the women of the Palace so they could see the street festivities going on without being seen themselves. Shutters covered every window, of which there were many, it was stunning.

We drive through the old city gates, just wide enough for our small car and perhaps a camel or two, to the Amber Fort. I cant say I have visited too many forts in my time, maybe none actually. If this was my first one then it was a great one to start with.  The courtyard was awesome, filled with elephants transporting people , the rich colours were amazing. The sounds of Sitar music filtered the parade ground.  Hawkers were selling everything and best prices were of course, saved for the end of any negotiations! We saw palaces and towers, courtyards and kitchens, Turkish baths and steam rooms.  Our guide for Jaipur, was very knowledgeable. He told us of daily life in the palaces and the courtyards. I felt like part of history at times! What an amazing place. Later that evening we went to the old city again to do some bazaar shopping. Must say I love shopping in India, so much fun, we had Saris and clothing all over the floor of the shop, so many people were just watching us choosing  colours and fabrics! Then the bartering, oh the bartering!  Its a challenge and we all love a good challenge don’t we?!

We then watched a beautiful sunset over Jaipur from the Tiger fort,  which is now a very under utilised restaurant. It was gorgeous, old walls and turrets, peaceful and cool as the day drew to an end. The lights of Jaipur shone as we sipped Chai and ate Samosas and soaked in the ambience.  This was one of those lovely unplanned moments. Lehku, our driver, had suggested it at the last minute. We suggested a lookout and he came thru with this stunning place. No other tourists, some locals dining with their loved ones, some monkeys of course  and us! …… stunningly beautiful!  Another day in India comes to an end, tomorrow we continue on to Agra and the Taj, longingly anticipated.

Heat exchange and culture shock

Delhi at 7am is pleasant in April, however when combined with the traffic, humidity, a million times more people than I have ever seen in my life and sacred cows, I realised India was going to be a cultural awakening!  Our tour guide Tarun Sharma, from Adventure Holiday Tours met us at the airport, thank goodness he was actually there! That was probably my only real concern for the trip!  Never mind the fact that we would be travelling with people we had never met, in a country we had never been to, amongst a billion other people! Hey I am Australian, we are fairly optimistic people  with a never say die attitude! Tarun took us to our hotel to freshen up, the hotel was a budget inner city one, clean and comfortable. The area didn’t seem very touristy to me, in fact there was a distinct lack of other tourists everywhere we went in India!  Excepting the Taj Mahal and Amber Fort. Talk about pick the tourist!  We visited the Laxminarayan Temple, which was our first exposure to India’s spiritual side. As a Christian, I have to try and suppress my own beliefs and theologies to try and understand other peoples religious viewpoints. Tarun had a unique passionate way of describing the faith of his family, Hinduism.  It was engaging and set the scene for some kind of religious awakening that became a consistent theme throughout our journey.I enjoyed the temple, it was refreshing to see people unashamedly dedicated to their Gods.

We also checked out the very modern government buildings, with plush gardens and the India Gate backgrounded by more beautiful gardens. Where on earth was this incredibly poor backward country I had been told about both as a child and an adult? Where was the dust and dirt? Yes we would eventually get to see some slums and beggars and distinct poverty but today we were seeing the best Delhi had to offer. We were also getting to feel the scorn of Delhi’s summer heat, it was so humid. We needed rest, was it jet lag or a combination of heat and humidity? Whatever it was, we were exhausted, back to the hotel for rest. our tour guide was most understanding and probably thought Australian women are pretty weak really. Day 1 was done for tourism, we were happy to head out to dinner by ourselves later on and sample some ‘real’ butter chicken and chicken biryani….how the taste buds still remember these amazing first dishes! Navigating ourselves around the hotel area was interesting, however we did feel safe on our own and nobody hassled us. On the contrary people were friendly and nice, even when we tried to buy a knife to cut our fruit up!